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Late every summer, polar bears gather outside Kaktovik to feast on whale carcasses left by hunters and to wait for the sea to freeze
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The gathering once brought 1,000 or more tourists each year to Kaktovik
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Kaktovik is the only settlement in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge
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The phenomenon is sometimes called "last chance tourism," referring to seeing sights and creatures before climate change renders them extinct
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The COVID-19 pandemic and a federal government order halting boat tours largely ended polar bear tourism in Kaktovik amid concerns that the village was being overrun by outsiders
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Kaktovik leaders are hoping to revive polar bear tourism, saying it could be worth millions to the local economy and provide residents another source of income if guidelines protect village life and the bears
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Charles Lampe is president of the Kaktovik Inupiat Corp, which owns 144 square miles (373 square kilometers) of land
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In the early 1980s, anyone in Kaktovik with a boat and knowledge of the local waters could take tourists out to watch polar bears on barrier islands or feeding on bowhead whale remains
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Tourism in Kaktovik increased after federal officials declared polar bears a threatened species in 2008
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Arctic warming is melting the sea ice that polar bears use to hunt seals
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Scientists have said most polar bears could be wiped out by the end of the century
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As visitation grew, the federal government imposed regulations requiring tour operators to have permits and insurance
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The regulations squeezed local operators out of the industry as larger out-of-town tour operators moved in
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Crowds of tourists visited Kaktovik, a village of about 250 people, during the six-week viewing season
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Kaktovik’s two hotels and restaurants lost some business when large operators began flying tourists in from Fairbanks or Anchorage for day trips
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Residents complained that tourists gawked at them or walked through their yards
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Limited small plane capacity forced some residents to compete with tourists for flights to larger cities for medical appointments, sometimes leaving residents stranded and needing overnight hotel rooms
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When the pandemic began, Kaktovik paused tourist visitation
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In 2021, the federal government, which manages polar bears, halted boat tours in Kaktovik over concerns about tourist impacts on bear behavior and the village
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Alaska Native leaders from Kaktovik are in talks with the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service to address concerns and potentially restart polar bear tourism as early as 2027
U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service
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"To ensure that any future opportunities are managed in a way that prioritizes visitor safety, resource protection, and community input," said the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service
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Kaktovik leaders want to limit how long a boat can stay near polar bears because extended exposure can make bears accustomed to humans and lead them to wander into town seeking food
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During the height of the tourism boom, Kaktovik’s bear patrol found it harder to haze bears out of town even when using non-lethal rounds
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The bear patrol killed about three or four polar bears per year during the tourism boom, compared to about one per year before the boom
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In 2023, a 24-year-old woman and her one-year-old son were killed in a polar bear attack in Wales, in far western Alaska
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It was the first fatal polar bear attack in Alaska in nearly 30 years
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Since boat tours in Kaktovik were halted, polar bears appear more fearful of humans
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Polar bear tourism in Kaktovik coincides with the community’s subsistence whaling season
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When a whaling crew lands a whale, it is usually butchered on a nearby beach
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While the community encourages visitors to watch or help with whaling, some visitors recorded or photographed without permission, which the community considers disrespectful
Sherry Rupert, CEO of the American Indigenous Tourism Association
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Sherry Rupert, CEO of the American Indigenous Tourism Association, suggested that Kaktovik market itself as a two- or three-day experience
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Roger and Sonia MacKertich of Australia visited Kaktovik in September 2019 seeking to view polar bears in the wild
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They spent several days in the village, took a walking tour led by an elder, and bought souvenirs made by local artists, including a polar bear hoodie
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Roger MacKertich is a professional wildlife photographer based in Sydney whose highlight was boat tours to see polar bears roaming barrier islands or swimming, during which the bears paid no attention to visitors
Roger MacKertich, professional wildlife photographer
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"That’s nearly as good as it gets," said Roger MacKertich
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